Hodinkee Radio

The movement maker's Director of Innovation and Marketing discusses collecting chronographs, Sellita, what the Swiss watch industry can do better, and his new brand Albishorn. Show Notes1:46: Chronographs for Collectors4:30: In-Depth: Swatch Group Battles With COMCO Over ETA Movement Sales (2020)12:40: Hands-On: The Angelus U10 Tourbillon Lumière19:30: Possible Tornado Hits La Chaux-de-Fonds, Causing Significant Damage To The Area28:20: Sellita catalog from 202245:20: Albishorn Watches

We're back in the swing of things after an end-of-summer break from Hodinkee Radio. This week, James and Malaika join the show. We discuss some of our favorite recent releases from Zenith, Tudor, Hamilton, Chanel, and more. Then, we get into Malaika's recent in-depth article on Tiffany & Co.'s "untapped watchmaking potential." We explore the American retailer's long relationship with watches and watchmaking, and discuss the potential for revamping its watches in the wake of its 2021 acquisition by LVMH. Then, we have a Collecting Advice from a world-traveling free diver looking for a watch. Thanks as always for listening to Hodinkee Radio – we have some exciting guests lined up for the fall, so stay dialed into this feed.8:30: Zenith ladder bracelet for the Chronomaster Revival Safari and Shadow10:30: The Dubai Watch Club Zenith El Primero A384 (SJX)11:15: Zenith Chronomaster Revival Safari13:04: Just Because: Chanel Made A Watch with Headphones18:20: Introducing: Hamilton Khaki Field Quartz19:00: Introdu

It's almost the end of summer, so today I've got Mark Kauzlarich and our new editor TanTan Wang on to talk about some of the biggest news of the past couple of months. While the watch world mostly slows down in July and August, news and releases have still been trickling out. So we're going to highlight a few of our favorite releases from Tudor, Longines, MB&F, and more. Then, we hit on some other industry news before taking a longer look at Habring2, the Austrian brand from Richard and Maria Habring.  Then, Mark and I will both be at Geneva Watch Days, so we do a preview of what to look forward to as the Swiss watch industry kicks into high gear again. Thanks as always for listening to Hodinkee Radio. We'll be off the next two weeks for an end of summer break, but we'll be back in your feed again on September 18. Show Notes2:50: Longines Adds To Its Spirit Collection, Led By The Titanium Zulu Time 394:00: Hands-On: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT8:50: Hands-On: Longines Legend Diver – Back And Better At 39mm10:30

Today's guest is a true legend. Fred Savage is an actor, producer, and director, best known for his roles in front of the camera in The Wonder Years and The Princess Bride after getting his big break in a commercial for Pac-Man Children's Chewable Multi-Vitamin. He's also a watch collector who I've seen get excited about vintage Gallet, Patek, and everything in between.You might also recognize Fred from his 2018 Talking Watches episode. Since then, he's become a fixture in the vintage watch world, and I always look forward to crossing paths with him at shows, auctions, or meetups. Ben Clymer also joins the show, and we discuss Fred's evolution as a collector since his Talking Watches episode, some of his more offbeat finds, and how watches have become something for the whole family in the Savage house. Thanks for listening, and we hope you enjoy this week's episode of Hodinkee Radio. Show Notes00:01: Fred Savage on Talking Watches1:45: Fred's "new" vintage Rolex Datejust from Wanna Buy A Watch?17:45: Fred's R

Our guest today is James Lamdin, co-founder of Analog Shift. After careers in outdoor equipment and cars, James started vintage dealer Analog Shift in 2012. A long-time watch collector, James turned his passion for vintage watches into a new resource for collectors and enthusiasts. You might know Analog Shift for its detailed watch descriptions, often with a bit of character, and perhaps you've even been lucky enough to visit its New York City showroom, a standby for local vintage watch lovers. In addition to Analog Shift, James is also the co-founder of the RedBar community.In 2020, Analog Shift was acquired by the retailer Watches of Switzerland. But Analog Shift has kept its character since then. Today, James is VP of vintage and pre-owned with Watches of Switzerland. When he's not talking vintage watches, he's drinking whisky, driving his vintage Porsche, and generally cosplaying as Magnum PI.James Stacey joins Mr. Lamdin and me to talk Doxa (of course), how the watch industry has evolved since Lamdin fou

Today's guest is gentleman dealer Eric Wind of Wind Vintage. Eric was one of the earliest contributors to Hodinkee, writing his first article about the Universal Geneve Polerouter way back in 2010.Over the years, he published the weekly "Bring A Loupe" column and you probably also recognize him from his multiple Reference Points appearances – Speedmaster, GMT-Master, Explorer, and Submariner – and his two talks for the Horological Society of New York.After his time as a Hodinkee contributor, Eric joined Christie's as a VP and Senior Specialist of Watches. In 2017 he set out on his own with Wind Vintage. Nowadays, you surely recognize his wrist and white cuff, always adorned with a rare or beautiful vintage watch.Eric tells a few stories about putting together those epic Reference Points, then we talk about the current vintage watch market, his modern watch collabs, and a charitable auction coming this December that he's involved in. Thanks for listening, and I hope you enjoy this week's episode of Hodinkee Ra

Today, we're chatting watches with our guest, watch journalist Blake Buettner. Blake's a veteran of watch media, having first contributed to Hodinkee in 2010. After that, he went on to work with StockX before becoming the Managing Editor of Worn & Wound. Nowawadays, you can find his writing in places like the Robb Report as well as his own project, The Deeptrack. We talk a bit about Blake's background, the early days of Hodinkee, and how he got into watches. But since he's old hat at this, James, Blake, and I mostly just kick back and talk watches – the new Seiko Speedtimer, exciting microbrands, all followed by a listener Q&A. A note that Hodinkee Radio will be adopting a summer schedule through the month of August. We're taking next week off, but we'll be back in your feed again before long. Until then, enjoy my discussion with Blake and James. Show Notes00:15: Blake's The Deep Track1:40: Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex Sea-Dweller4:11: Worn & Wound's Windup Watch Fair5:45: Christopher

Today's episode is coming at you in two parts. In the first part, Jeff Hilliard, our director of Limited Editions, joins Ben and me to chat about limited editions and Hodinkee's recent collaboration with Porsche Design, a take on the original Chronograph 1. Founded by F.A. Porsche in 1972, Porsche Design has made a number of contributions to watches, which we also discuss.After that, James Stacey and Mark Kauzlarich join the show. Since we're already halfway through 2024, we decided to recap the first half of the year: Our favorite releases, overlooked watches, and the watches we've been wearing the most.Thanks for listening, and enjoy the show. Show Notes1:01: The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Limited Edition for Hodinkee3:00: TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper Limited Edition for Hodinkee3:10: Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache for Hodinkee16:30: Hublot Classic Fusion Titanium Limited Edition for Hodinkee17:30: Zenith El Primero Limited Edition for Hodinkee17:45: MB&F LM 101 for Hodinkee18:15: IWC Pi

Today: the vintage Patek Philippe Calatrava episode. Introduced in 1932, though it wouldn't be called the "Calatrava" until years later, the Patek Philippe Calatrava is perhaps the most iconic watch ever, laying the blueprint for the modern dress watch. It was also introduced at a pivotal time in the history of Patek Philippe, just after it had been acquired by the Stern family. After the acquisition, the Stern brothers hired Jean Pfister, a technical master who would lead the development of the first serially produced complications that defined so much of Patek's collection during the mid-20th century. But first came the Calatrava ref. 96, Patek's first serially-produced reference. I called up founder Ben Clymer and client advisor Rich Fordon to discuss the Patek Calatrava. We start by asking: what even is a "Calatrava," and what isn't? Then, we jump through the history of the line, from the original reference 96 through the golden era of the refs. 570, 565, 2508, and others (depending on your definition of

Our guest today is editor and writer Jay Fielden. Jay is a media industry vet, having spent time at The New Yorker, Vogue, and Men's Vogue, before becoming editor-in-chief of Town & Country. From there, he took the same position at Esquire from 2016 to 2019. He's also contributed to Hodinkee a few times over the years.We invited Jay on to talk more about his recent excellent piece, "The Strange Journey of John Lennon's Stolen Patek Philippe Watch," which appeared in the June 24 issue of The New Yorker.It's the most detailed account yet of the "Lennon 2499" that has remained mostly a mystery for decades. He traces the story, talks to the people, and even found some never-before-published photos of the Patek given by Yoko Ono to Lennon for his 40th birthday, just months before he was murdered.Also joining the conversation is our own Ben Clymer. Thanks for listening, and enjoy this week's conversation with Jay Fielden.Show NotesSince the main topic of this week's episode is Fielden's article in The New Yorke

My guests this week are Phil Toledano and Mike Nouveau.Phil is no stranger to Hodinkee, having been on Talking Watches and this podcast previously. He's an artist and photographer, bon vivant as well as a collector of all kinds of stuff, including watches. Most recently, he's the co-founder of Toledano & Chan, which just released its first watch, the brutalist B1. He's also a frequent undercard on Mike's social videos.Mike is a vintage dealer and the king of WatchTok – he's got hundreds of thousands of followers across social media who tune into his daily updates on life as a dealer in New York City. He has, in particular, become known for his love and expertise in vintage Cartier, which we certainly talk about.The odd couple are friends and collectors, and they just love watches. We talk about vintage Cartier, Breitling, Patek, and pre-Daytonas, as well as the first release from Toledano's new brand. Along the way, we all get in a few friendly jabs.Show Notes00:01: Mike Nouveau on TikTok and Instagram Ph

My guests this week are watchmaker Dr. Rebecca Struthers and Lewis Heath, founder of AnOrdain. The two are friends and collaborators, so it was fun to get them both together for a conversation about watchmaking in the U.K., what they're up to, and what's next. Lewis Heath founded AnOrdain in 2015. Since then, the Scottish brand has become known for its beautifully crafted enamel dials. He founded the company after working as a product designer and deciding he wanted to make something closer to home. Dr. Rebecca Struthers is a watchmaker and co-founder of Struthers Watchmakers along with her husband and fellow watchmaker, Craig. The two began their business as restorers, but after realizing they'd made pretty much every other component for other people's watches, decided to build their own. This was the beginning of Project 248, their effort to build their own in-house movement. Struthers also became the first watchmaker in the United Kingdom to complete a Ph.D program, making her the country's first "watch do

My guest this week is Sylvain Berneron. Sylvain is a designer and the founder of one of the most exciting young watch brands. Before starting Berneron, Sylvain spent five years at Breitling, where he eventually became Chief Product Officer. There, he helped completely revamp and build a product portfolio after the brand’s acquisition. Before Breitling, he was also a watch designer at Richemont, working on projects for its portfolio of brands.He got his start designing motorcycles and cars, most notably for brands like BMW and Ducati.Now, Berneron is leading his own brand, and his first watch, the Mirage, makes a statement. It’s an asymmetrical gold wristwatch that takes its shape from its caliber.More important than his background though, he’s one of the most thoughtful guys around.Sylvain and I talk about his career, what watch design is missing, and about building his brand and developing the Mirage.Show Notes1:11: Berneron's website1:30: One To Watch: Breitling Designer Sylvain Berneron Sets Out To Explore

This week, we discuss a few new releases on our desks from VPC and Anoma which leads to a short discussion of the growing small-brand scene. We also jump into our thoughts on the new Audemars Piguet [Re]Master02. Finally, we talk about brand exhibits and spend some time chatting about a recent visit to the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva, and what made our jaws drop at the mecca of museums.Show Notes2:50: Hands-On: The VPC Type 37HW3:00: Series on Fratello about the development of VPC7:30: Anoma Watch (hands-on review to come)8:20: Amida Digitrend11:40: The B/1 Is An Audaciously Designed Watch By Newcomer Toledano & Chan15:05: Introducing: The Audemars Piguet [RE]Master0217:25: AP Chronicles on the original ref. 515925:00: Introducing: The Audemars Piguet Mini Royal Oak29:00: AP Chronicles 20mm Royal Oak from 199737:35: Patek Philippe Museum44:30: Raúl Pagès Turns The Page With His Old-School Régulateur à Détente45:30: Steel Patek Philippe 96 Sector Dial at Sotheby's46:30: The 'Imperial Patek Philippe' Ow

In this week's episode, I'm running the three-man weave with Ben and James. I gave the guys a bit of homework before we recorded. Last month, Ben mentioned in his review of the Rolex "Le Mans" Daytona that maybe we should do "A Week On (An Owner's) Wrist" reviews every once in a while. Talking about – and reviewing – watches that we've recently acquired. I thought it was a pretty good idea (nice, Ben!), so I called him up and said "Let's do it on the pod!" Of course, I had to get James in the mix as well to keep us grounded in reality (and Seiko). So each of us came ready to talk about two watches we've recently acquired. Why we bought them, what we like about them, and what we'd change if we could. We cover basically the entire range of watches, from Swatch to Seiko to maybe the hottest indie around. 1:30: Financial Times Luxury Live Summit3:00: In-Depth: Marc Newson Opens Up About Ikepod, The Pathbreaking '90s Watch Brand That's Cool All Over Again; Marc Newson Hourglass for Hodinkee6:30: Ben's Watch Spotti

Today on the podcast I'm thrilled to have two legendary collectors and dealers join me, Eric Ku and Justin Gruenberg.Of course, Eric is no stranger to Hodinkee, having appeared on the site, Talking Watches, and this podcast. He got his start as a vintage watch dealer, soon founding 10Past10 back in 2005. Most recently, he co-founded the online auction site Loupe This in 2021. He's since become known for his expertise in Rolex, Cartier, and pretty much all things vintage.Eric's Loupe This co-founder is today's other guest, Justin Gruenberg. Justin is a second-generation watch and jewelry dealer from L.A., and since joining the family business he also founded the vintage dealer The Keystone. Justin is widely admired for his wide taste that runs the gamut from vintage to modern, sport to dress, and everything in between.Both of these guys have a keen eye, great taste, and extensive about watches. In today's episode, we discuss the most recent auctions and the market more broadly, what dealers and auctions can do

In today's episode, I tapped our style editor Malaika Crawford, client advisor Rich Fordon, and video producer Jonathan McWhorter on for a Q&A. Some of the questions we take on:What other brands should release a Cartier Privé-style collection that taps into its heritage, and which brands should not;Our thoughts on the TAG Heuer x KITH Formula 1;Whether brands and stylists have ruined watch spotting at red carpet events like the Met Gala;Finally, Since Rich was on his way to Geneva for the spring auctions, we talk about how to navigate the sometimes scary world of auctions.Before we get to the Q&A, we also touched on our 21st Century Fantasy Draft from a few weeks ago. We announce the winner, and then Rich and Malaika tell us about all the amazing watches from the past 24 years we should've included. 2:40: 21st Century Fantasy Draft5:11: Introducing: Richard Mille RM07-015:20: Introducing: The Richard Mille RM 27-04 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal11:00: The modern Movado Super Sub Sea12:45: Jaeger-LeCoultre In

This week, we're back talking auction action ahead of the upcoming Geneva spring auction season. To do so, we've invited two of our biggest auction lovers – Hodinkee founder Ben Clymer and editor/photographer extraordinaire Mark Kauzlarich – to talk about what they're watching in the upcoming weeks.2:20: Rough Diamonds3:00: Monaco Legend Group Spring 2024 Auction4:00: Rolex 4113 Record, Piaget6:30: Record-setting Datejust9:00: Talking Watches with John Goldberger (with the "cheese knife" Rolex 4113 moment)12:45: Patek Philippe ref. 6301A Sonnerie for Only Watch13:15: The Only Watch Auction Delay and Reschedule to May 202414:45: Only Watch Patek Grandmaster Chime Record15:45: The "Paul Newman" Paul Newman Daytona Record  and Henry Graves Supercomplication.20:20: Introducing Rexhep Rexhepi for Only Watch 2023 and Petermann Bédat and Theo Auffret for Only Watch21:50: In-Depth with Furlan Marri's Secular Perpetual Calendar for Only Watch22:15: Christie's Rare Watches Including the Property of Michael Schumacher;

After Watches & Wonders, we're all a bit exhausted by new watch releases, so we decided it was time to do something fun: Another fantasy watch draft. And this time, we're tightening the parameters to get some more variety on the table. So I called up Danny, James, and Jonathan to build a four-watch collection with me.We're focused on our favorite watches of the 21st century. Any watch available to purchase in 2000 or later is eligible, except for the new releases we saw at Watches & Wonders a couple of weeks ago. Here's the big rule: Once a watch has been picked from a brand, NO other watch from that brand can be picked (i.e., once someone has chosen a Rolex, no one else can choose a Rolex in any category). Honestly, after our last draft when three of us picked Rolex sports watches, I wanted to get more variety on the table, and there has been so much good watchmaking in the last 24 years. The hope was that the draft would be a fun way to remember some of the best watches of the 21st century, so far.

It’s our last day at Watches & Wonders in Geneva, so we’re recapping everything we saw. We talk about the best watches we saw all week, the best watches under $10,000, drop some of our spiciest takes, and then all of us – all seven of us – pick one watch we saw that we’d purchase, money no object. Thanks to Lucid Motors for sponsoring this week’s live recordings of Hodinkee Radio from Geneva. To learn more about the Lucid visit: https://lucidmotors.com/ Check out the full story here: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/watches-and-wonders-2024-daily-episodes-live-from-geneva