Shop Talk Live - Fine Woodworking

Question 1:  From Chase: I have an old 13" hitachi planer I got from craigslist many years ago.  It has served me well but is starting to have issues. 13 inches has been useful, but at times I wish it was wider.  In your experience is it worth the extra money to buy something bigger, or should I stick with a more reasonable choice like DW735?  I have 220v access and floor space, so that isn't an issue. I am in my 30s, have been woodworking for ~10 years. I would like to keep woodworking into my 80s, so I can justify a longer term investment.  I can afford a 1.5 or 2k tool, but could buy something else if I stuck with a cheaper planer.   Segemented Cutterheads Change the Game     Question 2: From Martin: I know Mike likes to have a small offset between the rails and stiles of his frame-and-panel doors. But how does he then avoid chipping the unsupported inside corners of the stiles when planing the top and bottom of the door to fit the opening?   How to Fit an Inset Door - Systematic approach yields perfe

For more than 25 years GreenWood has worked with artisans in Honduras and the Peruvian Amazon to produce high-quality wood products from well-managed forests. They train woodworkers to use appropriate tools and technologies, and connect their products to good markets. The GreenWood Carver's Mallets are available at LeeValley.com. Support GreenWood's efforts by heading over to their GoFundMe page. The Workbench Book by Scott Landis

Rollie Johnson and Justin Fink join Tom, Barry, and Ben to discuss new tools being shown at the AWFS fair in Las Vegas

Danish Modern Desk with Tim Rousseau Question 1:  From Devin: Over the years of listening to your show, reading Fine Woodworking, and watching instructional videos, I’ve heard a million different suggestions for how long to let a glue-up sit before you take the clamps off. Ranging from “a little while” -whatever that is?- to overnight, and everything in between. Do you guys have any good rules of thumb for drying time? Strategies for Squeeze-out How to Tame Tricky Glue-Ups How to Apply Wiping Varnish Question 2: From the Fine Woodworking forum by forum member NewAndGreen: I’d like to apply a water based topcoat to two white oak chairs I’ve sanded. I was interested in using General Finishes water-based topcoat, but don’t know if I should go with the flat or the satin finish. I have read that GF’s satin is shinier than most. Is that true?  (I put a coat of Minwax Satin Polycrylic on one and liked the look, but I’m looking for a better product .) I know I don’t want to start mixing. (I’ve already over-com

Start Woodworking Season 1 by Matt Berger, Asa Christiana https://www.finewoodworking.com/videoworkshop/2019/07/start-woodworking-season-1 Question 1:  From Dan: I recently built a pair of desks featured in issue #270. I built them mostly the way Michael Robbins did, however instead of using a domino to construct the top I used pocket screws. I don't own a domino, I opted for a hollow chisel mortiser, and  I thought it would be silly to use a hollow chisel mortise. How do you feel about pocket screws versus slip tenons made with a domino? Both tools make joining pieces of wood much simpler. One uses screws, the other uses wood and glue. One is under $100, and the other is over $1000. They are both faster and easier than traditional joinery. Am I wrong to think if I am not going to use traditional joinery pocket screws and domino slip tenons are interchangeable? I love my hollow-chisel mortiser, and if I'm gonna cheat on it, I’ll just use screws.  Biscuit Joinery Tips and Tricks Learn how to harness t

Dovetailing episodes from Chris Gochnour's Enfiled Cupboard Video Workshop: Ep 4a: Case Dovetails – Tails     Ep 4b: Case Dovetails – Pins Ep 4c: Handcut Rabbets and Dovetail Fitting       Video: Chris Becksvoort–The Dovetail Master Question 1:From Jerrud: I'm making a dresser that is 72" long, 18" deep and 24" high not including legs. For a dresser this size–or any deep piece that is dovetailed–is seasonal wood movement a concern? Plain sawn lumber is cheaper than rift or quartersawn. Question 2: From Christian: I’m lucky enough to be expecting my first child, a baby boy, and I’ve always liked the idea of giving him a Lie Nielsen No 1 as a christening present. Recently, someone has suggested it a novelty tool and will be useless to him when he grows up. What alternative premium tools would you suggest as a christening gift? Question 3: From Mike: I’m building up my skills slowly by adding one new skill to each project I take on where I can.  I want to try my hand at dovetails one of th

If you are interested in learning more about how you can support Old Sturbridge Village’s cabinet shop, contact their development office at development@osv.org for more information. Question 1: From Joseph: I bought a new house in 2017 and instead of moving a lot of tools, I sold most of them and started over with new ones. There are 2 things I haven't yet invested in  - a router table and a dado stack. I'm primarily a hand tool guy, but I like to use power tools for dados/grooves and rabbets. Currently I am using my tablesaw with a FTG blade to nibble away at them, but I've reached my breaking point and want something a bit faster. I've used both a dado stack and a router table in the past. Both have some pluses and minuses for me; set up time being a major minus, but equally annoying for each. I'm also open to other alternatives that don't include joinery planes. Been there, bought the planes, sold the planes. I'm a lefty, and using planes right handed isn't fun for me. Tablesaw Blades for Joinery - Cut j

Become a Fine Woodworking Unlimited member today and get instant access to all FineWoodworking.com content. Start your free two week trial here. Question 1: From Tom: I’m now semi-retired and finally have the time to create a decent wood shop. I’ve moved to the Florida panhandle, where there are few hardwood dealers. In late May, I’ll be in Tennessee so I intend to stop in at a hardwood dealer/mill near Nashville. Given the projects on my to do list I’ll be picking up walnut, cherry, and ash. I also have my eye on black locust (for a picnic table), popular, box elder (table legs and aprons), and catalpa (ditto). Given the list of woods on the dealer's inventory list, I feel like a kid in a candy store. Perhaps too much like a kid in a candy store. I’d be interested in your collective wisdom about how one might go about stocking a new shop with wood, especially given the fact that the nearest hardwood dealer for a hobbyist is 5-6 hours away (Atlanta) and I don’t drive through Tennessee regularly enough to stop

Guest 1: Joe Taylor - Director of Sales for Rikon Joe gave us the ins and outs of a few of Rikon's new products Model 10-326DVR: 14″ Deluxe Bandsaw with Smart Motor DVR Control Blade Speed – Variable from 100 RPM (45 SFPM) to 2,375 RPM (4400 SFPM) Continuous Torque – 1.75 HP will never slow down producing a beautiful/smooth cut Safer Operation – Fast electronic braking and load spike detection Patent Pending – Spring Loaded Tool-less Guide System Effortless Cutting – Fifteen suggested speed settings for wood/metal/plastic plus one custom range Joe shared some exciting news about the Model 70-800: 4-Piece Woodturning System Guest 2: Nancy Hiller From Jim: In terms of their aesthetic value, is there a line for you between fine furniture and cabinetry? From Jeff: If you could only design, or build, which would it be and why? Free Plan: Architectural Wall Cabinet Arts and crafts maker presents a fresh twist on a period design by Nancy R. Hiller #270–Sep/Oct 2018 Issue The Pro's Corner Professi

Question 1: From Al: I am having some trouble laying out the pins and tales on the Wenge in the more traditional way, unlike what Mike shows.  Wenge is extremely hard and not at all forgiving and the grain tends to be a problem in scribing the wood. Perhaps this is why he choose to do this with the table saw and router methods as shown on Rough Cut.  Where can I get the table saw blade and the router bit to do it like Mike. He always has great ideas that are very valuable. The Whiteside router bit Mike mentions can be found here Question 2: From Madison: I was wondering how long it took Mike to build the tea box featured in magazine issue 269.   Dovetailed Tea Box by Michael Pekovich #269–July/August 2018 Issue Segment:  Ben: Steam bending everything! Question 3: From Matt: How would someone go about preparing kumiko strips without a tablesaw or drum sander?   Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send

Question 1: From Paul: Heide Martin’s serving trays in the May/June 2018 are beautiful and I have since made a couple. My question is about keeping the bottom boards flat. I cut some walnut that had been air dried for probably 20 years. In an hour or two both boards cupped. I then sequentially tried wetting one side, wetting both sides, soaking in water, soaking in fabric softener, each time clamping the boards to keep them flat and leaving for days and days to dry out. None of these things worked and in the end I ended up using some walnut plywood instead. How do you folks keep wide, thin boards flat? Working with Warped Panels by Christian Becksvoort #205–May/June 2009 Issue Video Series: Veneering Basics by Bob Van Dyke Question 2: From Richard: In reality we all have limited amount of shop time available.  However, if the amount of time you could work on a project was not limited what one piece would you choose to make? A Journey to Bombé - Veteran woodworker Dan Faia plunges into the project of a li

Question 1: From Harry: How can I prevent Camellia from becoming all gummy. After letting a plane set for a few weeks that had been wiped down with Camellia Oil it was next to impossible to get the plane apart. I actually caused some minor damage it was stuck so hard. Rollie’s answer: On tools if you have areas that the oil is applied to that don’t see use it can build a bit, but not much and over a long period of time. A quick wipe with a bit of naphtha or acetone will clean it off. Those solvents are essential because they are fully volatile and won’t leave any oily residue, which mineral spirits will do. Question 2: From Mike: In in a couple months I will be building a house and I will be putting my shop in the basement. Currently I have a small shop, but in my new shop it will be large (about 25x35). Since I have this rare opportunity, I want to put power in the floor and dust collection the floor. Therefore, I have to decide where to put my tools and I will not be able to move them. Are there general gui

Enter for your chance to win Fine Woodworking's Shop Giveaway: Upgrade to Laguna! The winner will receive a prize that includes: 14|12 Bandsaw F2 Fusion Tablesaw 1 HP Dust Collector REVO 12|16 6″ Jointer ShearTec II Question 1: From Shawn: I’m working on a Christmas present for my sister.  It’s a hallway table with 2 drawers in cherry. This is the first piece I’ve made with cherry.  Some of the surfaces have a quarter sawn grain orientation and I’m finding them highly prone to tear out. My card scraper seems to be the only tool I’ve got that can tackle it, and even then I still have to pay really close attention to the changing grain direction. I’d like to hear any recommendations you might have about tools and techniques to deal with tear out, and also about other tear out prone woods you’ve worked with. I’ve found quarter sawn maple to be difficult as well. Video: Taming Tough Grain with a Bevel-Up Plane by Bob Van Dyke #264-Nov/Dec 2017 Issue Video: Get Sharp Fast by Bob Van Dyke #254–May/June 2016 Is

Chris Schwarz is a furniture maker and writer who works from a German barroom built in 1896 in Covington, Ky. He is one of the founders of Lost Art Press, a book-publishing company that specializes in handwork, and Crucible Tool, a company that makes hand tools for woodwork. Chris is the author of several books, including Workbenches: From Design & Theory to Construction & Use (F+W Media), The Anarchist’s Tool Chest, Campaign Furniture, The Anarchist’s Design Book and Ingenious Mechanics (Lost Art Press). In addition to his publishing efforts, he builds casework and Welsh stick chairs for clients all over the world. Chris' class at Fine Woodworking Live is titled: Compound-Angle Joinery, Minus the Math Mastering compound angles typically means mastering trigonometry. But it doesn’t have to be that way. Compound angles can be measured, laid out, and cut without any math—or even numbers. Chris will show you the methods he uses for replicating unusual (sometimes radical) compound angles to build his We

Enter for your chance to win Fine Woodworking's Shop Giveaway: Upgrade to Laguna! The winner will receive a prize that includes: 14|12 Bandsaw F2 Fusion Tablesaw 1 HP Dust Collector REVO 12|16 6″ Jointer ShearTec II  Question 1: From William: I live in Ohio where the Emerald Ash Borer is ravaging every ash tree around. With all these ash trees coming down and the infestation of the Ash Borer, are we looking at a future shortage of ash trees?  Should we, as woodworkers, stock up on quality ash boards while we can get them and while they're fairly inexpensive? Question 2: From Paul: I’ve started looking for a better sketchbook and am overwhelmed by the choices.  I’ve heard Mike talk about the books he uses, but I’ve never heard him mention the brand or “model” he favors.  On STL 155 he mentioned 60-80 lb paper, spiral bound, unruled, 6x9 size. Frankly, that limits it to about half a zillion options and it’s very hard to judge quality even touching the book at the local art supply place.  So please spill, Mi

Leave a comment on this episodes show notes page to be entered in the giveaway of Craig Thibodeau's book, The Craft of Veneering.  Peter Galbert’s FWW Live 2018 Keynote Speech - Unsurprisingly, the journey of a windsor chairmaker is rarely a straight line   Question 1: From David: I have avoided cordless power tools because as a hobbyist and renter, I seldom use the tools outside of the basement workshop. I've been told I don't know what I'm missing, but it seems my wallet prefers it that way.  I'm most concerned about trying to commit to one brand/manufacturer or contend with the expense and hassle of having multiple chargers and batteries that aren't compatible. Do you feel as though it makes sense to keep all of your cordless power tools within the same brand? Or is my concern unfounded? If you had to commit to a brand, what would they be and why? Question 2: From Harry: How can I prevent Camellia from becoming all gummy. After letting a plane set for a few weeks that had been wiped down with Camellia Oil

Normally here I post a bunch of links. I'm going to be honest, you just need one link on this, Craig's website. Everything he discusses is easily found on his website, and the site itself is wonderfully done. It's worth going to just to see how a real pro presents their work. Plus, while you're there you can buy a signed copy of his book! -Ben https://ctfinefurniture.com/

How Ben finished Mike's spoon - Finish Greenwood Spoons Like a Pro by Emmet Van Driesche Question 1: From Fabian: I have a sliding table saw and struggle to convert all the jigs mentioned in the magazine to fit my saw. How would you attach for example a kumiko grid jig as used by Mike in the article "Spice up your work with kumiko" to the saw? Do I fasten it with bolts to the crosscut fence or just let it ride in the one miter slot in the sliding table? In either case it is just secured on the left side of the blade. Spice up your work with kumiko by Michael Pekovich #259–Jan/Feb 2017 Issue Sliding Tablesaws: Is One Right for You? by Daniel Chaffin #272–Tools & Shops 2019 Issue  Question 2: From Chris: I'm on the lookout for a new paste wax solution. I'm totally over the petroleum smell of commercial options, and would love something simple with just a bit of luster to apply to my projects. Has Mike ever shared his recipe to attempt to recreate the non-longer-available Goddard's Cabinet Makers Wax? I

Check out our newest video workshop, Enfield Cupboard with Hand Tools featuring Chris Gochnour and be sure to help us make our video workshops even better by filling out this quick survey. Question 1: From Dean: I have an enjoyable dilemma. I am building a garage with adjacent shop space at our north home.  The shop is 200 sq-ft, one third the size of my St. Paul shop, and thus creates a challenge adapting to a small space. I have been devouring all the FWW articles on small shops and believe I can make this space workable but I will have to make some concessions, mainly my tablesaw, jointer, and planer. Will I be satisfied and served by a portable, contractor-style table saw and a combination jointer-planer?   Portable Tablesaws by Patrick McCombe #209–Tools & Shops 2010 Issue Question 2: From Tanc: Is there a guideline for when stretchers are needed to strengthen a piece? I am looking to build an entryway table from oak that is 32-in. high, 60-in. long, 12-in. deep, with a  2 ½-in. apron and 2-in. leg

Question 1: From Cameron: I’m thinking of making a bench inspired by Mark Edmundson’s “Modern Danish Cord Bench” from issue #194-Nov/Dec 2007. I’m want to stretch the width to 6’ to use at my 7’ table.  Will the front and rear rails be enough to support 4 well fed adults or will I have a hilarious story to tell for the next 30 year about the thanksgiving collapse of 2019? Mark Edmundson’s “Modern Danish Cord Bench” from issue #194-Nov/Dec 2007 Strategies For Building Stronger Furniture by Mike Korsak #269–July/August 2018 Issue Question 2: From Mark: I saw a video where Matt Wajda drew a tool chest, full scale by hand.  Is this a common method? I draw Architecture for a living, I am tired of drawing.  I’m not interested in SketchUp, I already spend way too much time with AutoCAD. Woodworking is my release. I completely understand that you can work issues out on paper long before you even touch a board.  I am curious about designing without drawing. Does anyone you know use a design process that does not i