John Saboe's Far East Travels

The Pingxi Sky Lantern Festival is one of the most popular Lunar New Year Celebrations in Taiwan. People will travel from all over the island just for this event which starts about two weeks before the end of Lunar New Year festivities. A few years ago The Discovery Channel called it the second best New Year’s festival in the world. It’s caught on so it’s no surprise when I visit to  see more Westerners here than anywhere else at any time of year in Taiwan. I’m checking out one of the first sky lantern releases of the season which is held in the town of Pingxi, less than an hour by car or bus east of the capital of Taipei.People visit Pingxi and the neighbouring town of Shifin year round to release lanterns but Lunar New Year is the most popular time to come. Each person writes on one of the four sides of the lantern with their own new year’s prayers. You do the customary pose for pictures then release the lantern into the sky.The first lanterns were used from 220-280 A.D. as a communication tool during war t

Robert Kelly is a Lonely Planet author and freelance writer who for the past 20 years has been living in Taiwan and most recently Malaysia. His insights and knowledge of the culture, customs and diversity of East and Southeast Asia is vast. His most recent project is the audio podcast Travel Tape, a documentary style travel guide that dives deep into the cultures, history and stories of some of the most fascinating places around the world available-in the iTunes Store. I recently spoke with Robert about his new podcast series and life in Asia from his home in Kuala Lumpur.Robert has also worked for the BBC, The Wall Street Journal, Taiwan Review, The South China Morning Post as well as several other travel publications. In part one of our conversation Robert talks about his time in Taiwan as well as adjusting to life in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. I also posed the question are there still places that haven’t been discovered yet in East and Southeast Asia. Next time on Far East Adventure Travel Part 2 of my conver

It's easy to fall under India's spell of history, spirituality, culture and amazing food. I'm currently on the road and staying in the country's largest and richest city, Mumbai, and once again I've been seduced by India's sensory overload.Mumbai has been a different experience for me compared with other cities in the country I've traveled through and spent a considerable amount of time getting to know.By far Mumbai is the most international city I've visited in the country with the latest shopping, luxury brands, restaurant trends, and the most people I've ever heard speak English in public than in any other Indian city.Like any place I visit I have been walking the streets and getting to know the sections of South Mumbai, with the highest concentration of British Raj architecture including the city's most famous landmark the Gateway of India, and Chatrapati Shivaji Terminus, formerly known as Victoria Terminus.It's here where this episode of Far East Adventure Travel takes place. The streets that take you f

Experiencing the  culture of Mumbai is as easy as hopping on a bus. Daily activities like riding the bus or local trains can be just as interesting and exciting as visiting an important landmark or museum.Once you’re familiar with the numbers of the buses you’ll find they  are frequent and easy to use with usually an  English speaking ticket attendant on board.The waters of Chowpatty Beach are heavily polluted so swimming is not recommended however a trip seaside is a lovely way to end the day as the sun sets over the Arabian Sea.It’s India, so you’ll never know who’ll you bump into but it’s always guaranteed interesting. Smile, say hello and you’ve got instant friends, like these men I met who were visiting from Rajasthan.Chowpatty offers views overlooking Malabar Hill, the exclusive neighborhood of tycoons and movie stars. Malabar Hill has some of the world’s priciest residential real estate where apartments can go for $2000USD per square foot. It’s also where the world’s most expensive private home valued

Kanyakumari India sits at the southern tip of the subcontinent. Technically it’s not the Republic of India’s extreme southern point, that title goes to Indira Point on Great Nicobar Island. It is however a popular tourist destination and important pilgrimage for many Indians.My first look at the area was from it’s most visited sites, the Vivekananda Rock Memorial and Thiruvalluvar Statue, both located offshore on two rocks 500 meters from the mainland. Hundreds of people are ferried on boats everyday out to both the sites. It’s about 50 cents for the boat trip plus another small admission fee to the little island outcrops.The first stop is the Vivekananda Rock Memorial that’s dedicated to Swami Vivekananda, an Indian Hindu monk who was key to the introduction of Indian philosophies to the Western world including yoga. He was also instrumental in raising the status of Hinduism to a major religion in the 19th century. It is said that the Swami Vivekananda attained enlightenment on the rock.This is an incredibly

Nepal faced some of it’s most challenging days following the earthquakes of 2015. When I arrived on May 12 another earthquake measuring 7.3 had just shook the country this time killing 153 people, injuring over 3,000 and sending fear and panic throughout the rest of the population, many forced outside due to damage or the loss of their home. Some opting to sleep outdoors fearing more earthquakes and the collapse of their house.The tourism business was in a shambles, with the fear of more earthquakes and the international media coverage tourists just stopped coming. The foreign volunteers in Nepal for disaster relief far out numbered the few travellers that didn’t cancel their plans. In the meantime 90% of the hotels operating in Nepal were damage free. Nevertheless most people in the tourism business had already written off the current season and were more concerned about how the disaster and media coverage would affect the fall season, the busiest and most lucrative time of the year. During my stay I spent m

On April 25, 2015 a devastating earthquake with a magnitude of 7.8  shook Nepal triggering one of the worst catastrophes in the history of the country. Many aftershocks followed, thousands were killed, more were injured and left homeless. The country was shaken by another serious tremor registering 7.3 on May 12th right about the time I was scheduled to arrive in Kathmandu. I was there to document the current situation and to assess conditions for travellers. However my flight’s descent into Tribhuvan Airport was delayed for 90 minutes to allow for safety checks.When I finally arrived at the airport and hired a car to take me into the Thamel section of the city I found the normally busy and vibrant streets almost completely vacated. From a previous Periscope live stream here’s my account of what I saw as I traveled from the airport to the Thamel section of Kathmandu that day.Thanks so much for listening to Far East Adventure Travel. There will be more to come on the 2015 earthquakes of Nepal and the current c

In this latest episode on the road in Cambodia my first look at the Angkor ruins.We left in the late afternoon to pick up my pass for The Angkor temples and get a free sneak peak of the park. When you purchase your ticket after 5pm for the next day you are allowed into the park until closing for free! The sites close at 5:30 so it doesn’t give you a lot  of time but you could easily catch a sunset at say Angkor Wat or one of the other temples.As we passed the gate entrance we closed in on the great Angkor Wat Temple, the largest religious monument in the world.We then drove by  the concession area as elephants and their passengers were returning from rides. The Angkor Thom southgate where The Bayon is located. The gate is in pretty good shape considering it was built in the 12 century. It’s intention is powerful and you really get the feeling this was the center of a great ruler and empire as you pass through it.It’s just after 5pm but things are still busy around the sites. Even the monkeys were pretty activ

Kagbeni is one of the most interesting villages in all of Nepal with it’s take on Western shopping and food culture. But it’s much more than that. Ancient Bonn Animist beliefs, statues and a picturesque location in the Kala Gandaki, the world’s deepest gorge, .  Join me John Saboe for a special edition of Far East Adventure Travel Podcast on the Buddhist trail to the Upper Mustang-The Medieval village of Kagbeni, Nepal The Kag in Kagbeni was once Ghag, meaning center and it is,  with the important Buddhist/Hindu pilgrimmage site Muktinath to the east and the town of Jomson to the south. The beni in Kagbeni means confluence of two rivers where the Kala Gandaki and Jhong Rivers meet is where the village sits.It’s also the furthest north you can trek without a permit to the former Kingdom of Lo, the restricted Upper Mustang region. It’s an enriching experience just walking through the village admiring its’ almost 600 year old Buddhist monastery and observing everyday life. I wanted to get a deeper understanding

Chiang Mai, Thailand is one of the top tourist destinations of Southeast Asia easily accessible by plane, train or bus.  A historic old town filled with Buddhist Temples, restaurants, and cafes along with markets, bazaars and modern shopping malls Chiang Mai has something for everyone. Chiang Mai has also become an attractive base for digital nomads and entrepeneurs to live, with it's inexpensive lifestyle and up to date infrastructure.The city is considered the cultural center of Northern Thailand. It's old town is filled with Buddhist temples and historic buildings.On my most recent trip to the the capital of Chiang Mai Province I visited the Sunday Walking Market. Thousands of locals and travellers are drawn every week to the center of the old town for food, entertainment and a vast array of local handicrafts, clothing and other goods for sale.  I also paid an early morning visit to one of the town’s most significant Buddhist temples, Wat Chedi Luang where the monks can be see in their pray rituals everyda

Another beehive is finished. The palanquins are directed away from the middle of the street so oncoming emergency vehicles can pass through the crowds and the piles of fireworks remnants. Appearing to be cruising the area,  when someone truly is in need of emergency care I’ve seen these vehicles swiftly moving through the streets of Yanshui with the help of volunteers.Despite the elaborate fireworks displays, countless pao chengs, and international attention Yanshui District has never forgotten the reason for this festival. A desperate cry to the God, Gaun Di, or Gaun Gong, the God of War to save the region from the devasting plague that took many lives here  in the latter part of the 19th century. Temples and shrines are buzzing with followers praying throughout the two days of the celebration.Initiation in the festival starts very young for many with introductions through sparklers and non-explosive fireworks. Playful beginnings. It’s tempting to just move from one beehive to another but the dark corners of

We get the signal, their ready to go. The men at the front of the palanquins quickly turn their backs to the wall, and brace for the  barrage of piercing rockets.And the cacophony of the beehive began with roaring tides of bottle rocket streaks  fired off in all directions. Exploding in mid air, sometimes right in front of my mask and tiny explosions at my feet.  The giant God overseeing it soon disappeared behind the thick cloud of pyrotechnics smoke. Most of the gatherers near the pao cheng were facing the opposite direction, an extra layer of canvas protecting their backs from the bruise inducing rockets. Almost everyone is performing a funny shuffle with their feet to prevent bottle rockets from exploding up their legs. It’s a nervous dance I found myself instinctively doing out of fear as well. The palanquin attendants  continued to shake the Gods for good chi. The final wave of rockets is super intense, emitting a glow behind the giant War God. Although I’m startled by the occasional rocket blowing up i

The Yanshui Beehive Fireworks Festival is held every year in Yanshui District in Southern Taiwan. Locally known as the Feng Pao it  is considered one of the most dangerous festivals in the world as well as being the third largest folk celebration.  Why do they blow off millions of bottle rockets and firecrackers you ask? It all started with a cholera epidemic in the late 19th century. Due to the underdeveloped state of medicine victims multiplied daily and the people of the district lived in fear. On the day of the Lantern Festival, 15 days after the 1st day of the Lunar New Year, town folk paraded Gaun Di, the God of War on a palanquin around the streets.  Firecrackers were lit until dawn. In one night the people of Yanshui rid their district of the plague and the festival has been carried on ever since.I found my first Pao Cheng or artillery fortress with an impressive God statue, battle ready, and placed above the bottle rockets.  The larger pyrotechnics stacks on top of the walls you’ll see are usually ig

Phnom Penh has been the capital of Cambodia since French colonization. It is the country’s largest city with a population of over 2 million. It’s the center of commerce, the arts, cultural heritage and diplomacy. Once called “the pearl of Asia” it was one of the most beautiful French built cities in Southeast Asia. It’s riverside stretches along the Mekong River converging with the Tonle Sap. Phnom Penh has had several terms throughout the centuries as the capital of Cambodia.  Depending on which king was in power the center of control shifted to various cities but became the permanent capital under King Norodom l’s reign from 1866, where the royal palace was built and is still located today. The monarchy operates in the same manner as the United Kingdom,  in Cambodia a king that reigns but does not rule. The current King of Cambodia Norodom Sihamoni reportedly spends most of his time living in France.During the Vietnam war Cambodia was used as a base by the North Vietnamese and Vietcong. As a result many ref

Cochin, or Kochi is the second largest Westcoast Indian city after Mumbai with a total population of just over 2 million. Ernakulum District encompassing the townships and total urban area has the highest percentage of Christians in all of India. It’s not surprising to see so many churches and a strong Christian local culture and why it’s so busy in the village of Fort Cochin on a Sunday. Syrian Orthodoxy originally made up the Christian community before Europeans  arrived in the 15th century. Historically Cochin had a large Jewish community arriving here as early as 7th century BC with spice traders. Hindus still make up the largest portion of the population. After Christians,  Muslims are the third biggest group in Cochin, many living in  Matancherry township.With the diverse mix of beliefs, spirituality and cultures Cochin is also known as a very tolerant community with harmony like nowhere else in India.Fort Kochi was a simple fishing village before the Portuguese were handed over control in 1503. It was

Nepal is one of the world’s most diverse countries for traveller experiences and engagement. Bordered by the great Himalayan range boasting the highest mountains in the world including Mt. Everest, Nepal also offers a rich culture  with over 100 ethnic groups largely following Hinduism, Buddhism, or a combination of both. Martin Zinggl is an Austrian born journalist, photographer, writer and documentary film maker who for the last 8 months has been living in Nepal. He has just finished writing a book for Picus publishing,  http://www.picus.at/,  with an initial German language release about his many experiences while staying in the country. While living in Nepal Martin visited one of the busiest leprosy clinics in the world, The Lalgadh Leprosy Hospital. The story of Lalgadh is featured in latest book and can also be seen at: http://www.aljazeera.com/indepth/inpictures/2016/02/nepal-busiest-leprosy-hospital-160217072352121.html.Martin also visited Chitwan National Park in Southern Nepal where he covered the a

Tihar is one of my favorite festivals to see in Nepal. Each day of the festival either an animal, a Goddess or a brother/sister relationship are honored. The biggest night, Lakshmi Puja, is the most important night of the festival when houses and businesses are cleaned, decorated with Rangoli art(flower, colored sand) and candles. Prayers are also performed in hopes that the Goddess of Wealth, Lakshmi, will pay a visit and bless your family or business with a prosperous year.                                While walking around the streets of Thamel and the rest of Kathmandu you'll notice many people, especially women, are dressed  in their best outfits, many purchased to celebrate this special night.Thamel, the tourist section of town is one of the best places to hangout and watch the festivities. With the highest concentrations of shops, restaurants and businesses it’s one of the liveliest parts of Kathmandu during the festival with impromptu dancing, singing and traditional gatherings.India's version of the

 It’s called shitamachi, the old town ambience of Tokyo’s past that has survived and in fact flourishes today in the Yanaka neighborhood, within walking distance of Tokyo’s expansive Ueno Park. You’ll find streets and alleys lined with old style merchant housing. Typically a shop on the ground floor with a living space above. This neighborhood was virtually unaffected by World War ll bombings and the devastating earthquake of 1923 so unlike many places in Tokyo, some buildings here date back hundreds of years.   Yanaka is included in a trio of neighborhoods called Yanesen, Yanaka, Nezu and Sendagi.It was developed as a temple town during the Edo Period from 1603-1867. People from all over Edo, the former name of Tokyo, would visit Yanaka for sightseeing and worship. If you’re interested in visiting inside the temples arrive well before the closing time of 5pm. There’s also a traditional cemetery where the remains  of Tokugawa Yoshinobu, the last shogun of Japan lay.Don’t be surprised if you bump into a few wi

Kyoto, Japan once the imperial capital of the country is located in the Kansai region on Honshu island. Known as the city of 10,000 shrines Kyoto offers an abundance of history and culture.Unlike Tokyo, Kyoto was spared from heavy bombings by U.S. Forces during WW ll with many  shrines and temples of the city pre-dating this era. ArashiyamaTo get some expert advice on how best to spend your time and get the most out of your stay in the city I spoke with Niall Gibson expert guide, travel planner and managing director  of kyotofun.com and myjapanadventure.com. from his home Kyoto. Arashiyama is located on the western outskirts of Kyoto. It’s filled with Buddhist Temples, shrines and the world-famous Bamboo Grove. When’s the best time to visit? What other sites and experiences are possible in Arashiyama?A visit to Gion, the traditional neighborhood of Kyoto is always high on most everyone’s list as it’s one of the best places to spot real Geishas, or Geikos, (Kyoto), or Geikos in training, Maikos.  But how do yo

Luang Prabang is one of the most picturesque towns in Southeast Asia. The name literally translates to Royal Buddha image. It’s rich history, beautiful architecture combined with a strong Buddhist monastic community makes it a place all too tempting to stay longer than planned. On my most recent trip to the former royal capital I was fortunate enough to be  in time for the country’s most important holiday and festival, Pi mai or Laos New Year.Even if your visit is outside of a festival time you will be enchanted by one of the most beautifully preserved towns in Indochina full of French colonial architecture. An ample selection of cafes to spend a carefree afternoon in and a huge selection of restaurants from inexpensive buffets to multi-course dinners.  In my opinion it’s one of the best buys for fine dining in all of Southeast Asia.One of the best places to start your exploration of the town is a walk up the 355 stairs of the highest hill in Luang Prabang, Mount Phou Si,  to the Buddhist temple Wat Chom Si.